What will 2023 bring?

Translated by

Aline Bonnefoy

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After two pandemic years, 2022 ushered in a year of transition for several luxury houses, with several replacements in top creative leadership. Last year, star designer Alessandro Michele first took off his hat after seven years at Gucci. With his symbolic resignation, a profound change is announced for the luxury house of the Kering brand. And the fashion industry as a whole opens a new chapter after the end of the corona pandemic. An overview.

On Friday, Gucci will open Milan Fashion Week without Alessandro Michele – © PixelFormula

The still young year promises numerous discoveries and some surprises. A few days ago, the British designer Louise Trotter, for example, announced her resignation from Lacoste after four years of good and loyal service. From now on, the sports fashion brand wants to rely on a “collaborative studio”, i.e. a designer collective.

At Burberry, too, the signs point to a revolution. The house said goodbye to Riccardo Tisci last December and replaced him with Daniel Lee. The former Bottega Veneta star designer is expected to unveil his first collection for the venerable British fashion house on February 20. And will undoubtedly ensure one of the highlights of the autumn/winter season 2023/2024.

Gucci, on the other hand, has not yet found a successor to Alessandro Michele. The creative department will be in the spotlight for the next menswear collection. Especially since the Italian fashion house opens Milan’s men’s fashion week on Friday, January 13, thus returning to the catwalks after three years with its menswear.


Rumors about Michele’s possible successor do not stop. For example, the brand may have hired an in-house designer and is using the upcoming show for its premiere. Possible successors include the long-standing employee Remo Macco. A short time ago, he was appointed to the newly created position of director of studies. Design director Maria Lombardi is also in the spotlight for womenswear.

For the men’s collection, in Florence, one comes across the work of Jacopo Politi, who has been Borsalino’s head of design for several months. He unveils his first collection for the famous Italian miller at Pitti Uomo this week.

In March, Ludovic de Saint Sernin debuted in Paris at the helm of the Belgian label – Ann Demeulemeester

Etro’s new creative director, Marco De Vincenzo, parades in Milan on Sunday 15 January with his first men’s collection for the Milanese fashion house. He started with womenswear in September. Ever since he was appointed to the creative helm of Etro last spring, his work has been followed closely. And the luxury menswear brand Corneliani should also get a lot of attention. In the middle of the relaunch, she entrusted the creative direction to Briton Paul Surridge, who is unveiling a new collection for Milan Fashion Week.

In Paris, things remain relatively quiet on a creative level. The position of Creative Director of Louis Vuitton Homme remains vacant this season. The collection has been designed by an in-house design team since Virgil Abloh’s death in November 2021.

The biggest changes are expected with the women’s collections in February. An ideal time for a location determination of several houses that took a new creative direction in the past year. In Milan, the following designers will hold their second presentation: Andrea Incontri for Benetton, Maximilian Davis for Ferragamo and Filippo Grazioli for Missoni. In Paris, Ibrahim Kamara shows his second collection for Off-White.


Two womenswear designers make their debut at Paris Fashion Week in March: On the one hand, the young British-American designer Harris Reed, who has just taken over the reins of artistic management at the Parisian fashion house Nina Ricci (Puig). The rising star of London’s catwalk is known for his strong identity and gender-fluid fashion, and his collection is highly anticipated.

French designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin makes his second debut for Ann Demeulemeester. The brand was founded in 1985 by the Belgian designer of the same name and is now owned by Italian entrepreneur Claudio Antonioli. She recently entrusted her creative direction to the up-and-coming talent who has been making waves on the Paris catwalks for the past five years with her sensual and unrestrained erotic style.

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