New Burberry: How Riccardo Tisci gives the trench coat a new shine

fFreshly lifted and quickly smoking a subject in the limousine, Kate Moss is said to have arrived at the Met Gala in a black Burberry tuxedo dress. In tow was daughter Lila Moss, aspiring supermodel aspirant, in a crystal-adorned nude dress, also from Burberry. At any rate, this much-anticipated red carpet was something of a parade for a Burberry fan club that also includes Naomi Campbell, model Bella Hadid, Irina Shayk and rapper Stormy, among a few other celebrities.

It is new. Because Burberry is actually not a brand on the red carpet. Drama and self-expression have always been foreign to her. In return, she offered her wearers reliability in the form of trench coats, quilted jackets and checkered pleated skirts. Everyday wardrobe with an aristocratic touch. Classics that transcend fashion and the spirit of the times, but are not immune to change. That’s why Riccardo Tisci has been working on Burberry’s new image as creative director for two years now and now has made it sparkle. And not just by sticking crystal stickers on everything he sends down the catwalk.

Glamor across generations: Kate Moss and Lila Moss at the Met Gala, dressed by Riccardo Tisci

Glamor across generations: Kate Moss and Lila Moss at the Met Gala, dressed by Riccardo Tisci

Source: Getty Images / Gotham

Even the trench was recently attacked, the heart of the brand, the most quoted piece of clothing in the fashion history of recent decades, which is associated with Burberry like no other. This fall, a number of ingeniously deconstructed and enthusiastically reinterpreted models walked the digital catwalk. There was something almost therapeutic about Tisci’s obsession with the classic to bring it into the future. In one he had provocatively exposed his buttocks, in the other he had taken away his material stiffness, the material seemed to flow more over his body than to be draped over it. Tisci injected a shade of pink into the distinctive but all too often unfavorable retirement beige. And a mini trench from the collection will hopefully soon replace all the faded vintage behemoths that have been circulating among fashion fans for decades.

Open at the back: How to carry the trenches today

Open at the back: How to carry the trenches today

Credit: Burberry / ARMANDO GRILLO

Leather shoulder straps and double layers ensure the longevity of the classic. You can hardly demand more sustainable foresight from a designer at the moment if you do not want to compromise on aesthetics. Tisci’s new trenches make millions of ridiculous copies of the main street, which have recently taken the seriousness out of the trench coat, even more ridiculous. At the same time, he does not lose his sense of humor and puts Spock ears on his models to match the sci-fi landscape. Mission Trench-Future completed, then he dedicated himself to the quilted jacket. Tisci loves challenges.

This is what you have to do when you, as an Italian, intervene in the DNA of a brand with such British roots. But the British are known for having a sense of black humor. At first, he was intimidated by the house’s legacy, he tells Vogue. But then he freed himself and followed his instincts. “It was like a first kiss,” he says, meaning, translated into fashion, zooming in on the Burberry check, crossing an equestrian cap with a kepi, removing the serifs and knight on horseback from the logo and instead crystal studded. over a chasing pink twin set.

Crystal Knights on Pink

Crystal Knights on Pink

Credit: WireImage / Karwai Tang

Of course, he must also think strategically, pay homage to the British tradition, but at the same time take it to a global market so that it continues to exist. Not only allowed to design for English country clubs, but also for Asian and American millennials who just want to hype what reflects the values ​​of their generation. A slightly obvious step was the joint fundraiser with Supreme in early March. Just a little street cred in play to arouse desire elsewhere – the intention behind was as obvious as it was daring, for even the most coveted collaborator, with whom everyone wants to adorn himself, at some point loses more credibility than it conveys. But it still seems to work. “It was crazy,” Tisci told Vogue, “the numbers were staggering, not only in London but also in America and China.”

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Maybe because Tisci’s superpower is customer loyalty. Kim Kardashian has been a fan from the very beginning and trusted him in 2014, when he was still working for Givenchy, the creation of her wedding dress, which with the chastity bib looked strangely misplaced. In the end, however, the new Biedermeier in fashion was anticipated, which followed due to #metoo. When he was interviewed for the job at Versace in 2017, the industry could not have expected what Tisci would do with the brand in a rage after change. The only thing that was certain was that he would do something about her. “We do not have Versace in stock yet,” Jeffrey Kalinski, chief buyer of designer collections at the American luxury goods chain Nordstrom, told the trade magazine “WWD” at the time, “but I love Riccardo. If he goes to Versace, I would take the brand without having seen any part of the collection first. ”

It turned out differently. Instead of Versace, he ended up at Burberry, though it would have been interesting to see how he would have handled a Donatella who screamed “glamor” a little too loudly. He should have pulled glimpses off instead of adding them. But that’s the only flashback you dare while watching Tisci at work. It’s just too much fun to watch him shape the future.

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